Location: Bijapur district, >500 KMs from Bangalore, India
We were: Nisa, Sanjeev and myself
I learnt about Bijapur and Adil Shahi dynasty on a trip to Hampi – their rivalry and how finally Hampi was conquered by the alliance of Deccan sultans. So Bijapur was definitely on our travel list, to fill in the gaps.
Bijapur offers great historical monuments strewn around a dusty nondescript town. The monuments are mostly testimonials of cultural patronage of Adil Shahi dynasty – one of the Deccani sultanates that broke away from Delhi Sultans, later defeated Vijayanagara empire in Hampi and was in turn defeated by Aurangazeb of Mugals. In the 200 years they ruled, the sultans ensured to protect the city with a circled fortress, decorate it with Persian and Deccani buildings, flourish literature and music. In fact I read that Ibrahim Shahi himself was a poet and wrote hymns praising Ganesha, the Hindu god. However I must say that Hampi has been better fortunate to get needed attention for restoration and tourism.
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- Nisa, waking up from the night journey. There are many private and comfortable buses from Bangalore to reach Bijapur. The train Gol Gumbaz express is more economical, though it takes a longer time to reach.
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- The first thing I noticed was the fortification around, which made the capital city impenetrable – as our tonga driver Khan told us “the city is like a bowl”. There were make-shift stalls of Durga at many places, due to Navaratri festival. We couldnt see some of the monuments as traffic was blocked for the festival
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- Barah kaman – The biggest tomb is of Ali Adil Shahi, and there are 2 smaller tombs for his queens and 11 other women. Our little tourist booklet told us about the unique green stone work on the tomb, but I couldn’t find that myself.
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- Taj Bawadi: Built by Ibrahim Adil Shah- II. Our tonga driver told us that it was swimming pool of the king and also supplied water for the entire city of Bijapur. It’s quite sad to see how it turned into a garbage dump.
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- Asar Mahal in twilight: I read that this mosque has frescoes inside, deviating from the Deccani tradition of not depicting pictures. The Bijapur museum also talked about Prophet’s beard, gifted by Persian kings, is stored here . It is a functional mosque still, so women are not allowed inside
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- Like all tourists there, we hired a tonga to take us around the most important monument strewn across the town. The driver-guide Khan introduced the monuments, withoccasional dose of spice-up narrations of history
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- Barah kaman also known as Ali Roza, is built by the 5th Adil Shahi ruler, Ali Adil Shahi. It is a 12 pillared tomb that is left unfinished. There are seven arches on each side and the sight of a cloudless sky through them is quiet fascinating.
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- Present day Bijapur is a usual small town. Food and lodging options are minimal and sun is quiet scorching
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- Maize rotis – the stronger one that crumbles like fries rather than the soft wheat rotis. Unique to this region that produces quite a lot of maize and onions
The magnificent – Gol Gumbaz
Nisa’s History textbook told me that Gol Gumbaz is the second largest dome in the world, so I was prepared to take the dome in its scale. However the symmetry and marvel of Gol Gumbaz must be seen up close. Mohammed Adil Shahi, the most prominent of Adil Shahi dynasty built this tomb for himself and his family.
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- The museum in front of the monument in almost hides the scale of it, till one walks up to it. Need to buy separate tickets for both.
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- We reached there on a controversial day when Indian prime minister called upon the nation to clean up. It was amusing to see big officers sweep and sweeper ladies watch.
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- Entering the tomb. On all sides are 7 -storied minarets. The view of the structure from each story is different
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- Museum as seen from the dome
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- I was ready for the narrow stairs. Very similar to other minarets in India. Though climbing down tall steps crammed a muscle indeed.
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- Entrance to the acoustics gallery is through one of te lotus petals. Lotus based dome, I read, is unique to this region as a blend of Islamic and Hindu patterns
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- Acoustics is always important in Deccani architecture. Watch ticks can be heard directly opposite the dome multiplied in echoes. However, we didn’t make it to those early morning hours, and the gallery was already cacaphonic with everyone trying out their “whisper” the loudest
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- 44 m in diameter, unsupported by any pillars, only by interlocking arches. The hall below it is one of the largest single chambers. The wooden covering on platform indicates Shah’s tomb
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- The tomb is largely plain, but a couple of poignant Deccani ornamentation densely designed
The prettiest – Ibrahim Rouza
Ibrahim Rouza is graceful and finely ornate with Arabic (Koranic?) verses adorning the walls in beautiful calligraphy. The aesthetically inclined ruler, Ibrahim Adil Shah rests here with his family including wife, children and mother. It seems that Taj Mahal was inspired by this monument.Beautiful! Elegant!
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- Ibrahim Rouza
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- View from below of Ibrahim Rouza – graceful and finely ornate mausoleum. The drop like pattern was seen in Anegudi dynasty architecture as well, to let raindrop fall down beautifully
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- The highly ornate walls of Ibrahim Rouza is a marvel of Arabic verses , and graceful calligraphy. The arched windows offers a peak into the cool interiors of the crypts inside. The golden hues have faded into shabby colors now.
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- The mosque opposite the tombs in Ibrahim Rouza. In perfect balance with the tombs. Simpler arches in perfect symmetry; plainer dove shit in perfect circles.
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- Pillars of Ibrahim Rouza match the grace of its walls in ornamentation and beauty
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- Nisa looking through the strikingly dark windows on ornate white wall of Ibrahim Rouza
Where we stayed
There are not too many options in this sleepy town. My friend suggested Hotel Pearl and it was quite okay. Though the air-conditioner did not work mostly when we returned from the hot sun for a respite. Food options are also very limited, eating-out does not look like a routine matter for the local population. Bottled water and juices are available in most places, thanks to the tourists.
Nice write up. I am being interested in Bijapur. Thanks for your wide information with great images. Certainly I’ll go there .
Thanks a lot Jamil Sayed.